More Fiskesuppe

This brief post is a bit out of order, but I had to note the meal we had Saturday evening, our last at Svinøya Rorbuer, and its restaurant, Børsen Spiseri -- Stock Exchange Restaurant according to Google Translate, but probably more accurately as Warehouse and Store Restaurant, because that's where it's located, in the warehouse behind the original store, now rorbuer reception area.

I started with fish soup, here a richer version (though by no means as thick as the typical New England style chowder) made with full cream, with a few pieces of salmon joining the cod, shrimp and potato. What set it apart was a shot of Pernod.

For mains, Jean Sue ordered the halibut served with spring vegetables, including fennel. I went for lamb loin, cooked medium rare, served with french green beans. Both were accompanied by a delicious potato which seemed to be mashed with another veggie, then sautéed like a croquette, but without breadcrumbs.

Desserts were quite nice (pictured at the bottom of this post). Jean Sue ordered the fresh fruit salad topped with caramelized meringue, vanilla ice cream and a sprinkling of pistachios. I went for the cloudberry yogurt panna cotta, which would have been perfection had the cloudberries been put through a strainer: the large, very hard seeds ran counter to the silky texture of the panna cotta.

Fiskesuppe

Fiskesuppe at Maren Anna, Sørvågen

Fiskesuppe is the local version of a soup found wherever cold-water fisherman reside. The fish and the milk are essential, everything else is (block that metaphor!) icing on the cake.

The version pictured above, while not unknown in Maine or Norway, is for the rich folk. In addition to the local cod, it's further enhanced by shrimp and a couple of mussels. A little leek and carrot slivers (and butter) finish this rich man's broth. The most famous version in Norway is Bergens Fiskesuppe, from the Hanseatic city Bergen (which we'll visit later in our trip). Just as renowned is the Lofoten version; I still haven't been able to divine the difference between the two.

More typically, the only animal protein in the soup would be fish, usually cod, though it could be made from any firm, white fish. Carrots would be typical, as would a little cubed potato, with some plain onion replacing the leek.

It would not, however, be thick like the typical "New England" chowder. Neither cream nor cornstarch thickener ever insult this soup. Even using half-and-half instead of whole milk would be pushing the envelope.

My own recipe would start with a cup of fish broth. (You could use bottled clam juice; it's better, and not at all hard, to bring shrimp shells with water to cover to a boil, then simmer for 20 minutes and strain.) Meanwhile, onions are being gently sauteéd in plenty of butter until translucent (do not brown!) along with carrots cut julienne. All of this goes into a pot with a quart of whole milk, salt and pepper (white if you have it) to taste, perhaps a sprig of fresh thyme (don't overdo the herbs). Turn up the heat so the soup starts a very gentle simmer, at which point add a pound of cut-up fish. When the fish is cooked through (should only take 10-15 minutes, depending on thickness), place into bowls and serve; garnish with fresh chives or parsley, if you'd like. Serve with good, crusty bread.